Burda 08-2008-108, Raglan Sleeved Mock Turtleneck Knit Top

Burda 08-2008-108 Thumbnail

I was at G Street Fabrics on Saturday for the totally innocent purpose of attending Fashion Sewing Club and picking up my serviced machine (woohoo!  you cannot imagine how I missed it).  Well, the classroom for FSC is over by the $2.97/yd table so I was practically forced to look on it.  I had been quite unsatisfied with my top options for the Tweed Ride and then I saw this fabric which could not have been more what I was looking for than had I designed the textile myself.  I love, love the mustard color, and the sheer mesh with polka dots was just so appealing to me that I snapped it up.

I knew I wanted a high-necked top--it just seems part of the style--which is not something I normally go for.  I went through my back issues and settled on Burda 08-2008-108, a mock turtleneck knit tee with raglan cap sleeves. I was at first unconvinced about the raglan sleeves--with my narrow, sloping shoulders they are not always a great look for me--but in the end I just love the curved lines of them!
Collar Inside
The collar is one of those draft-your-own pieces; Burda gives you the dimensions and then sends you on your way.  I made a pattern piece based on Burda's instructions, and when I went to sew on the collar it was 4 inches too short.  Totally weird.  It's probable that I was taking seam allowances that were a little too small, but not a total of 4 inches too small.   When finished, the neckline and upper back were way too big.  I really don't know what I did there.

I interlined the collar with a piece of bias cut white silk organza to ensure that it stood up straight.  I was pleased with how invisible it is.  I originally cut the bias piece as wide as the collar so it would be doubled when the collar was folded down, but that turned out to be a little too much, so I cut the piece the height from the seamline to the foldline.

Transparent Flat
As drafted, the collar is meant to be 2 inches tall, but that is waaaaay to tall for my short neck, as it turns out.  As you can see, I turned it under and hand-stitched it to shorten.  The finished height is  now 1 inch.

I used self-fabric loops and some buttons I already had in stash that turned out to be a perfect match for the closure, rather than a zipper as suggested by Burda (my fabric wasn't very stretchy--in a more elastic material no closure would be needed).

I have been really into the idea of visible seaming in translucent or transparent fabric lately, and I just love the way the raglan curves at the sleeve show up in the wearing.

I can also recommend transparent fabric as a great way to muslin--I could see exactly how closely the shirt fit when wearing it without a tank top underneath.

Cape Open

The cape is coincidentally from the same magazine, 08-2008-101. I made it three years ago, and am just going to acknowledge that I will never review it.  But it was a really fun addition to my outfit and I finally got some wear out of it!

I was so happy to find the perfect fabric and the perfect pattern *and* finish the top the evening before the ride.  I was just delighted with my outfit!

Front Closeup
This pattern comes in a 34 so I didn't have to grade, plus it's on the old pattern sheets.  Heaven!  My only gripe with the pattern is that I wish it came with full sleeves, rather than cap sleeves.  I really like the fit of this top on me and would like to make one with long sleeves for layering, but I will have to do some drafting to get sleeves that set into the entire armscye.

All photos are here and the pattern review is here


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