Burda 09-2010-111 High-Neck Wrap Blouse

Burda 09-2010-111 Thumbnail

I fell in love with the Burda 09-2010-111 wrap blouse as soon as I got the magazine.  It only took me a year and change to get to it, ahem.

I first did a wearable muslin out of this plaid silk dupioni from The Carol Collection (which somehow didn't make it into the photo of all the fabric, but I'm positive that's where it's from).  I had it in mind for a different pattern, but when I pre-washed it--and thank goodness I pre-wash silk by hand--the bleeding was more like hemorrhaging.  It used to be a very crisp plaid with no white parts, now it's more like tie-dyed into vaguely plaid shapes.  So glad I pre-washed!!!!

Collar Pleats

It's a fairly simple pattern, if a bit fussy.  You have to mark pleats at the neckline and a dart near the hemline.

After the first version, I considered whether I should sew the collar pleats after the center back seam was sewn.  I decided to follow directions, but as you can see my pleats are embarrassingly offset.  Well, I mean, not *that* embarrassing--I don't think anybody actually cares--but still, offset.

Mark and Interface Dart
I like the button and loop closure on the original pattern, but was skeptical that it would work for me.  It would be a flattering look for a rectangle or a large bust, but a small-busted pear such as I requires waist definition and I figured I would need to do a tie.  I got the project to the point where it could be pinned together to try on and decided, yep, I need the tie.

I planned to sew the tie into the dart, so I reinforced it with interfacing, cutting out a triangle of interfacing just inside the dart seam lines so it wouldn't be too stiff.  I marked the dart on the right side with tailor's tacks, and then drew a chalk line down the center of the dart.
Stitch Tie Into Dart

I constructed the tie--I had to piece it for the plaid version so I amused myself by calling it "madras"--and then pinned the tie about 1.25" down from the dart apex and just to the side of the marked center line; it doesn't matter which side you choose, but it does need to be next to the center line rather than at it so the dart will fold properly.

I stitched the tie in place, and then stitched the dart, enclosing the tie.

The sleeves as drafted (on this version of it) are meant to be overly long and then scrunched up with a tie.  Several reviewers mentioned that the tie was impractical and kept dragging through food and dishwater.  Just as well, because I didn't have enough of either fabric to make the really long sleeves.  For the plaid version, I finished the edge of the sleeve with self bias tape, and made a bishop sleeve with a cuff for the green version.

Plaid Front
Burda 09-2010-111 Green

The pattern works much better in the fluid olive georgette than the rather stiff dupioni.  I would never recommend it for anything like a cotton, and I wouldn't make it again in dupioni.

I like the blouse enough to make it twice, obviously, but it is not my One True Wrap Top pattern. The drape on the green version is gorgeous, but it is a little fussy to keep closed, and the style is not amenable to a strategically placed snap.

There is also more fabric billowing under the arms than is flattering for me, I think.  I always feel self-conscious about that because to me it's like a giant neon sign saying "SMALL BUST HERE.  BOOBS TOO SMALL TO PUSH OUT THE FABRIC PROPERLY."  But the style is not really amenable to an SBA, which would completely change the look anyway.

I'm glad I finally have a replacement for my beloved McCall 5314 green silk wrap blouse.  I didn't know I needed a broad back adjustment when I made that and the seams are going to burst if it's worn again.  :(

All photos are here and the pattern review is here.


Sertyan asks:

I have been reading about many SBAs in your post and would love how to do them, I read about 'narrowing' the dart. How do you narrow a dart?

I have made a post with all my different SBA methods explained and illustrated here.  Hope that helps!


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