Vogue 1020, Side Gather Dress in Directional Stripes
A while back I helped Cidell work on her sewing basement and in return took home a few goodies she was culling out of her fabric collection. Among them was this striped knit.
I have a whole Pinterest board on directional stripes, but never find any striped fabric that I like. This is a great knit--beefy, with good recovery. I like patterns that play with the direction of the stripes without using seaming, just the pattern drafting, as in this T by Alexander Wang ($140).
Vogue 1020 seemed like a good pattern choice for the experiment. I had been wanting to make it again, as it is my winter "date night" dress and I was getting a little sick of the first version.
Mindful of my experience with the fit the first time around--way too tight, way too much belly--I cut it in a larger size at the waist this time, using the size 12 marking, the largest size on my pattern. Unfortunately, it is still way too tight with way too much belly, and I don't like this version any more than the last one. :-/
Last time I made this dress I gathered and stayed both side seams before sewing them together, which did not work well. My side seam was gathered more than it should have been (despite cutting my stays to the gather length provided by the pattern instructions). This time I sewed the side seams together and then gathered, as per the pattern instruction. Rather than use the instructions' stay length, I gathered it while wearing until the hem was straight and then stitched on a ribbon to keep it in place.
I did my now-usual picot elastic finish at the neckline. I am sure I will eventually get sick of this, but it is much more enjoyable to put in than clear elastic and I think the look is cute.
I think I am giving up on this pattern as a dress. It just doesn't suit my body shape (and/or the dysmorphic body shape in my mind; also keep in mind that I am totally sucking in for these photos). However, I think it would make an awesome sleeveless tee in sailor stripes for summer, so I am keeping my eyes open for a suitable stripe.
All photos are here and the pattern review is here.
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