McCalls 5525: Rose peplum trench


I love trench coats! I like how you can make them fit loose but then cinch them in with the belt, the perfect blend of flattering comfort.
The fabric is sateen from Spotlight, I've had it in the stash for awhile not really sure what to make out of it. It alwasy screamed a full skirted 50's style dsress but since I never seem to wear them a nice floral trench seemed the go.

Pattern adjustments;
Same as last time; I used a sz 18 with a 1.5" FBA and (from memory) about 1" to the back width and arm width.
 I added the peplum onto the back, its about half a circle skirt. 
I lined the peplum before sewing it on, I've tried bagging out the lining on a a jacket with a peplum before and found the lining hangs down and the peplum doesn't sit right.

I did bound buttonholes.

Single welt pockets
The lining is just plain black with flat piping around the facings.

I've got a lot of excess at the back of the sleeves/upper back again. I've had this happen on a few jackets, I have pinned it all out in the past but then found it restircted arm movement and since it drives me nuts to have to take jackets off to drive I left it alone. I have a theory its because I do a wide back adjustment out of FFRP and then gather the excess when I sew the shoulder seams together, it seems to leave excess sitting there in fabrics that won't ease out easily like a wool.
I noticed it as well on The Great British Sewing Bee and Patrick said you need seom excess to allow for movemnt so I feel a lot better! On that topic, I love that show and am so gutted its finished, bring on the next season!

I couldn't get this to photograph properly, all the pics came out overexposed and I adjusted the colour and now they are a bit too saturated, grrrr, anyway the background is black and the roses are a nice blue toned red btw. I've had this finished for the last week but these are the best pics I could get!


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