Grainline Studio 16001: Cascade Coat take 2

Its hard to show how much I love this coat in photos - I made it a couple of months ago and have been wearing it non-stop (apologies for the cat hair all over it, as soon as I put it down the cat is on it sleeping!)

I learnt a fair bit making the first version and therefore changed a few things on this version. The adjustments are the same;

I made View A with the hood

Size 14 through the shoulders graded to a sz 16 at the hips

Narrowed the shoulders by a further 1/2"

Added front princess seams from Simplicity 2446 with the equivalent of a 1.5" FBA

Changed the armscye  by also using S2446

Added to the upper sleeve width and to the sleeve cap (approx. 2" to each)

Wide back adjustment 1.5"

Added a centre back seam

Interfaced the fronts

Plus;

Took out some size of the hood (next time I'll be making it smaller again)

Added about 3" in length to the body and about 1.5" to the sleeves

 Catch-stitched down all the hem facings, I found on the first version they tend to flip out and not sit right, so I catch-stitched these down and then hand stitched down the hems on the sleeves and body. Its makes for a lot nicer coat to wear and didn't really take any more time.

I used a heavier poly coating this time and the coat sewed up so much nicer and is a lot nicer to wear too. The hood doesn't drag it back as much and its just so more wearable.

I made my own toggles again, the half circle toggles are a lot harder to sew on so I made these into a triangle shape. I made my own leather cording too, just by cutting strips, doubling them over and stitching. I used pre-cut leather strings last time and I found they have stretched out a lot and they don't have the heft and secure feeling that these do.

I used a brass zipper I salvaged out of a jacket from the op-shop (the same jacket I used to harvest all the leather from for the toggles)

Lining is a green rayon from Great Nan-in law's stash. I used plain black for the hood and pocket linings incase it shows.

This has been my main jacket so far this winter, and I bought some really nice plaid wool blend coating from Lincraft for next years version!